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Amy Winters / 艾米温特斯

An Interview With Amy Winters艾米温特斯访谈录

 

On Monday 21st we caught up with Amy Winters to talk to her about Rainbow Winters, her clothing line that fuses the ‘cutting edge of science with the high-art of fashion – producing collections of interactive, wearable designs’.
21日周一,我们采访了艾米温特斯有关“彩虹冬天”的设计,她的服装生产线融合了“科学的边际、艺术的时尚,生产出了绚丽、耐磨的服装”。
http://www.rainbowwinters.com

What inspired you to want to work in fashion?
I am fascinated by fashion because of its similarity to film. Both are about creating a specific atmosphere, a certain time, place and visual feeling and both often  mirror each other, certain films reflecting on fashion in the real world and also fashion in films sparking new trends for their audience.  Originally I trained at Central Saint Martins as a costume designer for theatre and film, and fashion felt like a natural progression.  I used to look inside editorial magazine spreads as a teenager and every page I would flick through I could imagine a mini-story. It’s the same with music videos, for two minutes you transported to a new crazy, fantasy world.
是什么促使你进入时尚圈的?
我对时尚非常关注,因为其类似的电影,创造特定的氛围、时间、地点和视觉感受,它们往往互相映衬。一些电影会反映在现实世职位界中的时尚,而某些电影中的时尚元素能激起观众新的兴趣。我在中央圣马丁进修戏剧和电影的服装设计师的专业,感觉时尚就像一个自然的过程。在我十几岁时看那些杂志,每翻过一页,我都能想象出一个小故事。这就像音乐录影带,只需要两分钟就能把你带进一个新的疯狂、幻想的世界。
 
Who has had the greatest influence on your career?
Thierry Muglar’s ‘insect’ collections, Mugler had models flying down from the ceiling, each model was an actress! The ‘60s and ‘70s silhouettes also play a huge part in my collections, my favourite periods of history are the Edwardian period, 1920s, early ‘60s mod period and late 60’s bohemian rock-stars wives. Other influences have been Tim Walker and Shona Heath’s dreamy collaborations on Vogue editorials which are always slightly surreal but engaging at the same time.
 谁对你的职业生涯影响最大?
Thierry Muglar’s的“昆虫”集合,Muglar让那些模型从天花板上飞下来,每一个模型都像个演员! 20世纪60年代到70年代的剪影在我的收藏里也起到重大的作用,我最喜欢的时期是爱德华时期、20世纪20年代、60年代初和60年代末波西米亚摇滚明星的妻子们。其他对我有影响的比如蒂姆·沃克和绍纳希思在时尚编辑的梦幻般的合作,这种合作有时让我们感觉很不现实,但又引人入胜。
What are your favourite places of interest in London and where would you take foreign visitors?
I’d like to go back to being a tourist in London and visit as many hotel bars and lounges as possible! I would also like to take a foreign visitor on a sunny day in June to St James Park and sit underneath the trees.
你觉得伦敦哪个景区最有名?如果去国外旅游你会去哪里?
我想如果去伦敦旅游我会去访问尽可能多酒吧和休息室,国外的话我会考虑在6月的阳光明媚的时候去圣詹姆斯公园,坐在公园的树下。
 
 
How do you perceive the line between art and fashion?
What I find the most fascinating is when the boundaries are crossed between art and fashion, maybe this can only happen in haute couture but fashion can be very similar to sculpture in silhouette and painting in print.
 你是如何看待艺术与时尚之间的关系的?
我觉得最神奇的是艺术与时尚能越过彼此的界线,这也许这只能发生在高级时装上,但时尚与剪影和版画雕塑非常相似。
And what about science?
Science and art are so far apart yet at the same time both  the artist and scientist  seek to discover something new.  Scientists and artists/designers sometimes have difficulty understanding each other because they speak in different languages. I’ve had conversations with scientists who only speak in technical terms and are astonished when you don’t understand the most obscure abbreviations but once you get past that and realise that 99% of what they have already discovered is not being applied anywhere then it gets really exciting, finding new applications and experimenting with their discoveries, translating these into fabric is what really drives me.
 那你觉得科学与艺术之间的联系呢?
科学与艺术是相隔得非常远,但相同的是艺术家和科学家都试图发现新的东西。科学家和艺术家有时很难相互理解,因为他们的专业术语不一样。当我和那些老是说专业术语的科学家,交谈时,对于我不理解他们晦涩的缩写他们感到很惊讶。他们只说在技术方面的对话和惊讶。但一旦理解了那些词语的意思,我会变得非常兴奋,因为它们99%没有被应用于艺术的方面,我会在艺术方面寻找新的应用和验证这些发现,再把它们运用于服装上。这一直驱使我进步。
Tell us a little bit more about the technology of your range and why you deem it important?
Technology can transform clothes aesthetically and can be incredibly beautiful. I never think technology should be an add-on or a gimmick, it should seamlessly add to clothes to transform. My concept is based around change, process and response, clothes interacting with their environment.
I am fascinated by responsive clothing, clothing which can interact in a conversation for example, or to the colour of the sky, I love the idea of clothes being in tune with our emotions, for example a garment which could change texture depending on how we were feeling, soft when fragile, colourful when we want to stand out, I could go on.
For the A/W 11 collection the concept is based around day and night. Through the use of specialist inks colours change on the clothing outside during the day, at night in UV lit night-time adventures the patterns glow bright blue.
可以多告诉我们一些你的领域里的技术吗?为什么你认为它很重要?
技术可以改变衣服的美观,可以让衣服变得非常美丽。我从来不认为技术应该是一个附加或是个噱头,它应该用于对衣服的改造。我的观点是基于变化、过程和反应,衣服应与环境相搭配。
我非常喜欢能表现情感的服装,比如那些可以吸引交谈的服饰,或表现天空的颜色的服饰。我觉得让衣服随着情绪改变这是个非常好的主意,比如某种服装可以根据人们的情感改变它的质感,当我们感觉脆弱的时候它会变得很舒适,当我们想表现自己的时候它会变得很绚丽多彩。
对于A / W11系列想法是来于白天和黑夜的变换。通过运用专业油墨颜色变化,白天衣服会变换色彩,晚上会焕发明亮的蓝色。
 
What do you think of LFW so far and what have you enjoyed most?
I’m always a big print fan and look out for what print based designers like Erdem (so beautiful and painterly!) and Holly Fulton have to offer. I also love Mary Katrantzou seriously sculptured lampshade dresses.
目前你觉得LFW怎么样,你最喜欢哪部分?
对于像埃德姆和霍莉富尔顿他们的设计我一直是他们的忠实粉丝,我总是在期待他们的新作品。我也很喜欢Mary Katrantzou的那种很隆重的晚礼服。
 
Your clothes change in bars and clubs. What music would you like to see your dresses dance to
Some of my A/W 11line is for bars and clubs, under UV light the printed pattern glow vivid blue. The coats change colour outside, even on a rainy day UV rays pierce through the clouds and transform square panels on the coat into blue. The sound-reactive dresses would work best to intense volume changes, they change pattern according to volume, a concert would be ideal as the singer would sing the dress would light up dramatically!你的衣服在酒吧和俱乐部会发生改变。你喜欢什么样的音乐,可以让你的衣服变得最美丽?
我的一些A / W11系列的服装是专门为那些去酒吧和夜总会的人设计,在紫外光的照射下衣服会发蓝光。声音反应礼服在最大音量的刺激下变化最大,它们会根据音量的大小改变。音乐会将是变得更理想如果歌手在演唱的时候衣服会突然变得很亮丽! 

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